Today we spent the day with John's cousin, Leonard Schumacher. (Their grandmothers were sisters!) They had not met before but it didn't take long for a wonderful kinship to develop.
Leonard was a wonderful host and tour guide. He took us for a walk throughout the village of Laufen. He has lived in Laufen for 65 years (and ancestors before him), so he knows every corner and most of the 5000 people. During his working years in Basel he took the trains for the 20-minute trip. Now retired, he still has no need for a car. Everything is within walking distance. We accompanied him on his daily shopping walk to the butcher and grocer, taking time to notice all the churches, shops and scenes along the way.
During a walk through the cemetery we found Meyers, Burgers, Freys, Schumachers and Meiers. - all names in John's family. Along the Main street, we found a bakery and butcher shop in the same location as that of John's relatives. - now very modern and under new ownership. We visited the church where John's grandfather worshipped as a child before the family immigrated to WI.
Laufen is a great mix of the old and traditional - city walls dating from 1290, churches built in the 15th century, town-wide chimes ever hour and special bells when a resident dies - and the modern - cell phones everywhere, a tattoo shop, denim fashions as in the States. the Main street has chic upscale shops with prices to match. (We will never forget stopping for a bowl of soup and being charged an extra $3 for a pat of butter!)
Sometimes it's the little things that make traveling so fascinating: the cashiers in the grocery SIT at swivel chairs, and the customers bag their own groceries which slide down toward them after being scanned; the cemetery removes markers after 25 years, resulting in only headstones that are new; a separate burial area is set aside with smaller plots for those cremated, and a separate area for child burials; all toilets are dual flush; lavatories are unisex - with men and wm sharing the wash room.
We could not have had a nicer host/guide/relative/friend! We thoroughly enjoyed our day with Leonard - including two wonderful meals he cooked, a tour of his garden and relaxing in his comfortable house.
In the evening we achieved another goal for this trip--attending the rehearsal of the Laufen Yodeling Club. John even got a lesson at the close of the rehearsal. We will see them again when they compete at the Yodeling Festival on Saturday.
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The festival opened yesterday with children's groups competing. This morning the booths opened, selling food, clothes, souvenirs and giving away trinkets. As we wondered and got a lay of the land, we came upon groups of children or alphorn players performing in the sidewalks - all in their gorgeous canton costumes. What talent!
Adult competitions got underway in the afternoon. First we went to the alphorn players. It was like a concert. People sat in awed silence. Some of it reminded me of bugle music - apparently it is not easy to play the alphorn - no valves or slides - you just play it with your lips. Nor is it easy to carry around!
